Saturday 13 October 2007

Blog 8 - more from Canberra Thursday 11th October

It is still really Sunday but I published the last one in case it disappeared into the ether.
Thursday was terrific. Dennis and Pauline took us slightly diffidently out of town to a small town/village called Bungendore to see a wood gallery. But what a wood gallery! The work was superlative and so much of it at that absolutely top-level of quality. Having established that we could be awed to such levels we could then enjoy everything else on offer. We were a bit suprised to be taken to an English-style pub for lunch - but the quality of the meal was far greater than most English style pubs! We headed back to Canberra via Mount Ainsley, from which we had a spectacular view of the city and were able to get a greater sense of how it was put together. Whenever you read Canberra you must think in terms of being serenaded by wonderful birdsong everywhere, which might help to get the flavour. My favourite is a pink breasted parrot - a Roselle, which has a trill of 6 notes that sound like the deeper end of a xylophone!! Onwards from Mt. Ainsley to a relaxing stroll round the beautiful Botanic Garden - laid out in zones of planting as seen in various parts of the country - lovely landscaping but really interesting at the same time. We finally saw our first wild kangaroos, a mother and joey probably, quietly grazing on the lawns there. Sitting for tea in the cafe and learning yet more about the country in a thoroughly relaxed way is my idea of serious travel.

Dennis then took us over to stay with Adrian and Jenny and everything about their hospitality was gracious; a lovely home surrounded by gloriously scented jasmine, wisteria, roses etc. and relaxed and interesting explanations about everything. We spent the evening chatting over a delicious meal and collapsed into a large and comfy bed - this time with the window open and birdsong to wake us.

Friday 12th October

How is it possible to pack so much into a day without feeling knackered? (though probably Adrian was on his knees by the time we finished!) He drove us first to a private gallery showing Aboriginal art and we were thrilled to fine our arrival coincided with a party who had come from where the art was painted and the 90+ year old painter proudly pointed out his own work. Jimmy Baker is apparently a legend amongs Aboriginal painters and we had seen him for real!
The work was so full of vitality, colour and movement and most had sold at the Private View the night before - bargains I'm sure.
Mood changed entirely as we drove off and were halted by a large funeral procession, led by a lone piper, various members of the police department and bizarrely with the herse followed by a group of very aged bikers on their Harley Davidsons etc. soberly riding at walking pace. We still don't know who it was.
We then had a drive out in the country (via the impressive recycling works and compost production zone?!?) to Lanyon, one of the few original estate farms, kept just as it was first set up in some cases, with its convict barn, sheep sheds etc. It was a really unexpected treat to have a taste of this aspect of Australia as we had thought that staying in 3 capital cities would mean the outback side of life would have to be foregone this time. It is set in beautiful countryside and I would love to have had days there to paint the scenery. We also discovered the Anzac biscuit, for those who don't know it, wait till I get back to try the recipe.

Lastly, just in case we felt we hadn't fitted in enough (ok I forgot to mention the Glassworks on the way out too) we had tea and a walk round the new Australian National Museum. It is a sumptuously hideous construction outside - a world -class horror, but with a clever entrance atrium that rose like a cathedral space inside, cream, black and red with slopes, wallks, windows that were shaped with references to Aboriginal animal forms. The rest of the interior spaces were chaotic and incoherent but the section on Aboriginal life was brilliantly informative.
A relaxed local Thai meal rounded off a perfect day.

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