Sunday 18 November 2007

Blog 25 Monday 12th onwards

Whilst in Nelson we spent some time visiting studios and exhibitions which are spread all round the area. Some fine work to be seen, but all too little time. We also checked out and enjoyed the two sculptures made by Anthony Stones as we thought we should see some of his New Zealand work whilst we are here.

Back then to Picton which had seemed very attractive when we arrived there yesterday and well worth some time there and we stayed in a motel with a balcony and wonderful views. There was time to stroll around the harbour, do some sketching and generally enjoy this small and rather undervalued town.
Tuesday was blustery but the afternoon crossing to Wellington was not too choppy and it is a wonderful trip between the islands out to open sea and then into harbour. Three uninterrupted hours gave me the first proper chance to sketch as we moved from scene to scene and a range of subtle colours.

Rene came to collect us and we returned to the familiar surroundings of their home. When we came last time they had built it onto a hillside and now they are building an extension which will double its size. Lots of work ahead but a great space in the end.
We saw Katie, their daughter, for the first time since our earlier trip when only tiny and she is now a lovely young woman on the verge of her next stage in life and I'm so glad we had the chance to see how now and hope she will come and stay in Oxford before too long.
We went out for a superb fish and chips supper opposite Kapiti beach but it was too blustery to try walking on the shore that evening.

Wednesday 14th - with mixed weather and some heavy rain we decided to take the day easily and catch up with washing and exploring locally. A hair cut brought Richard back from the world of the mad professors ('but I've already had my hair cut this year') and we found yet another wonderful place for a snack lunch. Quality is amazing everywhere. We learned later that Wellington had had such heavy wind that the ferry had been delayed several hours with 6m swells and planes had had problems landing.
Our evening was spent cosily watching the moving Swedish film about creating music 'As it is in Heaven' together.

Thursday 15th - Weather had calmed so we set off for Wellington by train. The Te Papa Museum was built in about 1997 and we decided to see how it compared with the others we have visited over the last few weeks. It is big but somehow rather bittily put together, both architecturally and from the point of view of the exhibits. Its lack of coherence leaves one with a sense of confusion - and I think I most enjoyed a short video which showed the Maori story of New Zealand's creation but with beautiful graphics. We experienced the earthquake house and saw a nostaligic presentation based in a bric a brac shop which gave glimpses of 20th century life. The Maori exhibits were pretty limited, so we will try to learn more in Auckland. They have a new Marai (meeting house) built there which is partly a stage setting for performances is a modern take on the old fashioned Marais (which can also be seen in the Museum) but the multi-coloured wooden figures were a bit disneyfied for our taste. The art collection too is limited but with some really fine works scattered amongst the others.
(traditional Maori marai in Te Papa)

(New variety of Marai in Te Papa - all singing all dancing)
We raced around Wellington to pick up some odds and ends, some from the Jewish Community Centre, and finally walked back along The Terrace - full of fine old houses with verandas but sadly now cramped behind huge skyscrapers which block what would once have been perfect views over the town. Back by train, right up by the driver on main line that actually goes down to one track at one point and skims right down by the sea - a terrific route if you get the chance.

Friday 16th - This time we finally got to the beach - Raumati beach is truly lovely, with splendid views of Kapiti Island, the bird sanctuary, and back towards the coast towards Wellington. The vast amount of driftwood and shells spilled all over it was another fascinating source of natural art. We walked to a small and unspoiled village called Paekakariki, had some perfect Moroccan spicy soup and then found a really good wrought iron sculptor working in his studio there and a great guy producing wood turned art forms from a machine he called the 'Transmogriphier and Cerebral Enhancitron' (Heaven only knows what Richard will be calling the workshop when he gets back).
Esme picked us up from there and we went on to a purpose-built complex for art/ turning/foody shops called Lindale. It is beautifully done and full of wonderful products but there were few people shopping so I'm not sure how it survives before the main season gets going.
Our final meal with Rene and Esme was a very special one, beginning with Sabbath prayers and grace and trying to express how much we had all appreciated our time together. It was sad to think how quickly it had sped past but has left so many precious memories.

On Saturday we left early for the flight to Auckland and on the way had a chance to go up to the hilltop overlooking Kapiti coast to try to fix the view even more firmly in our thoughts.

The flight was good with clear views of this beautiful country on the way and this time we were taken by Brian back home to see Harrison their son as well as catching up with Valerie and Victoria again. We've been offered the use of Victoria's VW Polo whilst in Auckland which makes life infinitely more convenient as we can pop backwards and forwards to their house and that of Valerie's mother, Daphne, who was my mother's best friend as the real reason we have come to Auckland is to see all of them. Meanwhile they have put us up in great comfort at a nearby hotel. Once we had settled our cases back there, rested and refreshed we were raring to join everyone for a great barbecue on their deck and meet good friends of theirs, Tom and Aneke and their children.

Back soon with the next update.

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